Saturday 13 October 2001 - ASPECTS OF COUTURE
Venue : The Barn, Calverley, Pudsey, Near Leeds.

A brief extract of the talk given by Fiona Lawrence on The Duchess of Windsor - Her modes and manners, reproduced by kind permission. :

"Wallis Warfield Simpson was the twice divorced American, for the love of whom Edward VIII abdicated his throne in December 1936. Their marriage caused a constitutional crisis, being heralded by many as the 'Wedding of the Century' - Mainbocher's innovative wedding gown being credited as 'the most copied dress in history'.

Wallis Warfield was born in 1896 and formed the disciplined style of 'Hard Chic' for which she became known, due to a lack of means caused by her father's early death. Wallis's mother made the majority of her daughter's wardrobe, passing on her high standards of workmanship, Wallis becoming adept at analysing and adapting styles. In 1914 she caused a sensation in her 'coming out' dress, made by her negro seamstress to a style 'shamelessly borrowed' from one worn by the fashionable tango dancer, Irene Castle, and displayed an early talent for colour in another gown with a gold bodice and flame red, Georgette skirt. By developing a mix and match approach to her day wear, adding interest with neat and unusual accessories, she found that she could not only extend her wardrobe, but set herself apart in society where snobbery was rife.

After the break up of her first marriage, her 'lotus years' in China were spent gleaning ideas from the native women, perfecting her immaculate grooming and it was this 'tidy as a tinker' appearance and willowy, fashion plate figure that made her the epitome of 1930's chic. Unable to afford couture prices, Wallis's disciplined approach to dress enabled her to appear perfectly attired during her rise through diplomatic circles, café society and gain eventual acceptance into the Prince of Wales' circle. It is noticeable that once able to buy couture clothes, her style changed little, the well-cut, strictly tailored day wear and fantasy for evening becoming the back-drop for the increasingly fabulous jewellery lavished upon her by the Duke.

The Duchess quickly spotted talent in others and championed several innovative designers, such as Dior and Balenciaga, using their artistry to keep her on the 'Best Dressed' lists for over 30 years."

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